I wish I had a decent picture of them on the plywood, but imagine a 14 foot long snake that swallowed a good sized rodent...in other words, long and skinny gently widening in the middle. By varying the shape along the length, you change the eventual cross section of the canoe. The strips are cut out with a jigsaw just shy of the marked line. Then, I used a small plane for the last fraction of an inch. I should have tried to leave something like 1/8". I tried to go closer to the line and sometimes took off too much. I'll end up using a bit more filler or patch in a sliver of wood later. The spring clamps you see (about $1 each from Grizzly) are holding the two pieces of plywood together to minimize vibration and tear out.

Here you can see the boat with the first four planks out of 10 wired up. I made up a simple jig to drill 1/16" holes 6 inches apart and then match drilled the mating plank to match. You can't drill all the planks with holes 6 inch on center because the planks bend in different ways and you end up with the holes not quite matching from on end to the other.

Here is a picture showing the wire "stitches" holding the planks together and one of the bulkheads. The bulkheads are just there to hold the shape while building the will be removed. You can also see daylight between the left plank and the bulkhead. I needed to adjust the tension on the wire stitches as I added more. I also learned to always twist the wired to the outside. It is much easier especially near the ends.

For each set of holes you need a 4 inch piece of wire. If you do the math, I need to drill 500 1/16" holes (yes, buy extra drill bits) and 250 pieces of wire. I quickly figured out that I needed an easy way to cut the wire. I marked a 4" line at the end of the bench and nailed the wire package to the board....much easier.
Here is a picture of the stern with all the wires. Pretty straight so far. The other end needs a bit of work yet.
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